Makeup is a powerful form of self-expression, and when it comes to enhancing your features, knowing how to work with your unique eye shape is essential. For those with hooded eyes—a shape where the upper eyelid appears smaller due to a fold of skin that droops over the crease—finding the right makeup techniques can dramatically transform your look.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about hooded eyes makeup—from understanding your eye shape to mastering eyeshadow placement, eyeliner tricks, and choosing the best products.
What Are Hooded Eyes?
Hooded eyes are characterized by a fold of skin that hangs over the natural crease, making the eyelid appear smaller. This eye shape can be genetic or develop with age due to loss of skin elasticity. Because the lid space is partially hidden, it can be challenging to apply eye makeup in a way that remains visible and smudge-proof.
Celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence, Blake Lively, and Taylor Swift have hooded eyes, proving that with the right makeup, this eye shape can look incredibly sultry and alluring. thehoodedeyes.com/
Challenges with Hooded Eyes
Before we dive into techniques, it’s helpful to understand some common makeup struggles people with hooded eyes face:
Eyeshadow creasing or disappearing when the eyes are open
Eyeliner smudging or transferring to the upper lid
Difficulty creating a visible crease or cut-crease
False lashes feeling heavy or awkward
With the right approach, all of these challenges can be overcome.
Step-by-Step Makeup Routine for Hooded Eyes
1. Prime for Longevity
A good eyeshadow primer is a non-negotiable for hooded eyes. Since the lids tend to fold and rub together, creasing is more likely. Use a long-wear, smudge-proof primer to ensure everything stays in place. Some popular options include:
Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
Milani Eyeshadow Primer (great drugstore option)
Apply a small amount over the entire lid, from lash line to brow bone.
2. Create a Fake Crease
Because your natural crease may be hidden when your eyes are open, you’ll need to create a new, higher crease to open up the eyes.
Using a matte mid-tone eyeshadow (like a soft brown or taupe), apply the shade slightly above your natural crease while your eyes are open.
Use a fluffy blending brush and blend upward toward the brow bone to give the illusion of more lid space.
This technique helps lift and define the eyes, making them appear more open.
3. Use the "Open-Eye" Method
A common mistake is doing your eye makeup with your eyes closed. Instead:
Keep your eyes open and relaxed while applying makeup.
Look straight ahead in the mirror to see where your crease naturally falls when open.
Place your shadows and liner so they remain visible even when your eyes are open.
4. Focus on Outer Corners for Lift
Hooded eyes can sometimes look droopy. To counteract this:
Use darker shades on the outer third of the eye and blend upward and outward in a soft "V" or wing shape.
Avoid bringing dark colors too far inward—they can close off the eyes.
Shimmery or light shadows work best on the inner corners and center of the lid to reflect light and add dimension.
5. Skip Thick Eyeliner
A thick, black liner can overwhelm hooded eyes, especially if it eats up valuable lid space.
Instead:
Go for a tightline technique—applying liner to the upper waterline to define the lashes without using up lid real estate.
Try a thin wing or kitten flick that follows the natural angle of your lower lash line.
Gel and waterproof pencils (like Inglot AMC Gel Liner or Stila Stay All Day Waterproof) are perfect for staying put.
6. Curl Lashes and Use Mascara Strategically
Lashes can get lost beneath the hood. Curling your lashes lifts them and opens the eyes.
Use a high-quality lash curler (like the Shiseido or Kevyn Aucoin curlers) and hold for 5–10 seconds.
Apply mascara with a focus on the outer lashes to elongate and lift the eye shape.
Try tubing mascaras or waterproof formulas to prevent smudging.
Recommended mascaras:
L'Oréal Telescopic Lift
Thrive Causemetics Liquid Lash Extensions
Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High
7. Lashes That Work for Hooded Eyes
False lashes can be tricky, but the right style makes all the difference.
Choose lightweight, natural-looking lashes with a wispy flare that elongates the outer corners.
Avoid overly long or heavy lashes—they can cast shadows or make lids feel weighed down.
Consider trimming lashes from the outer end to fit your eye shape.
Best styles:
Ardell Demi Wispies
Kiss Looks So Natural Lashes
Velour Effortless Collection
8. Highlight and Define
Adding dimension is key to making hooded eyes stand out.
Use a light shimmer or satin shade on the inner corners and just beneath the brow bone.
Don’t overdo the brow bone highlight—keep it subtle and diffused.
Define your lower lash line softly with a smudge of mid-tone shadow or pencil for balance.
9. Avoid Over-Blending
Blending is essential—but over-blending can blur the structure you’ve just created.
Use small, precise brushes for better control.
Blend with intent, not endlessly.
Keep your dark shades where you need definition, and don’t drag them too far.
10. Practice Makes Perfect
Like any skill, perfecting makeup for hooded eyes takes practice. Don’t get discouraged if it doesn’t look flawless right away. Take photos with your eyes open and closed to see how the placement reads from different angles.
Bonus: Cut Crease for Hooded Eyes
A cut crease is totally achievable—even on hooded eyes!
Use a concealer or cream eyeshadow to carve out a new crease line above your natural crease while your eyes are open.
Set it with a light shimmer or metallic shade.
Keep the cut crease visible by ensuring it stays above the fold.
Final Thoughts
Hooded eyes are beautiful and expressive—and with the right makeup techniques, you can make them pop in striking and flattering ways. From redefining the crease to mastering liner placement and lash tricks, it all comes down to understanding and embracing your eye shape.
Whether you're going for an everyday natural look or a dramatic smoky eye, makeup for hooded eyes is all about lifting, defining, and enhancing. With a little patience and practice, you’ll find what works best for you—and your eyes will absolutely shine.
